show your fabrications

[wracks71]

Very nice...

thanks. i thought of making a few of the air cleaner nuts and selling them,but damn they are time consuming to make! they are kind of specific for my air cleaner also.dual snorkel 3.jpg

[SuperB70]

Yes, very nice indeed, I like the penstar alot.

[Tubbed440]

Two manifolds I made. I had no aluminum welding experience when I start the first one.

First one:


Second one:


You can look at the process pictures here for the first one:
http://jonsmithphoto.com/tubbed440/p...ke%20Manifold/

The second one here:
http://jonsmithphoto.com/tubbed440/p...0Manifold%202/

[SuperB70]

I have check them out at your build thread.
Just mind blowing job. Love the way you did the runners.

How much did you leave extra for machining on the flances?

[wellis77]

I love that first manifold. That's what I'd like to see for the 3G Hemi... Beautiful work!

[MrN2OBelvedere]

The first manifold looks pretty but the second one is superior from a functional standpoint.

[Tubbed440]

I have check them out at your build thread.
Just mind blowing job. Love the way you did the runners.

How much did you leave extra for machining on the flances?

You can hog them out to the max wedge port window, but the runner itself it about .125 too short to be full MW size at the small end. The flange is 1/2" thick, so getting them to gasket match should not be a problem. I basically made the ports the same size as the Hughes engines intake gaskets without the "extra" piece removed, so they're about .125-.200" shy of being max wedge height. Still a healthy improvement over factory cast. In my application, that HUGE port window would take away some of my drivability, so I decided to match the Hughes gasket instead. That was my thinking anyway. 500 inches could very well have enough port velocity with a MW port window to hide any drivability issues. Trial and error. That's why I have 2 very different intakes.

[SuperB70]

How did you make sure that the flances is flush with heads. Or did you milled they straight? Or bold them to the jig or heads when welding? I'm looking the first intake, my concern would be that the vacuum statue ( or what is the right word for it) will hit the intake top plate. That thing happened to our blowerengine with hillborn scoop that had 2" tall air cleaners, engine run allways like little choke on, killing spark plugs frequently. Made that new 4" tall aircleaner shown earlier here and problem solved. Your secont intake looks much better concerning this problem.

, Juhani

[Tubbed440]

How did you make sure that the flances is flush with heads. Or did you milled they straight? Or bold them to the jig or heads when welding? I'm looking the first intake, my concern would be that the vacuum statue ( or what is the right word for it) will hit the intake top plate. That thing happened to our blowerengine with hillborn scoop that had 2" tall air cleaners, engine run allways like little choke on, killing spark plugs frequently. Made that new 4" tall aircleaner shown earlier here and problem solved. Your secont intake looks much better concerning this problem.

, Juhani

The intake was welded up on a mock engine block and heads. This solved geometry issues and warpage during the welding process.

I'm not sure I'm following the rest of your statement. Both intake manifolds are "dry" manifolds, meaning they flow only air. It sounds like to me you were starving your carbs for air, not necessarily having any issues with intake backflow, or what ever it's called. I plan on tuning and testing both manifolds, so when I get to that point, I'll make sure I post the information in my build thread.

[SuperB70]

Now something else:

First have to say that I saw this kind of device on some garageforum or somewhere, couldnt find it anymore, guy has a video on youtube but couldnt find that either. So I'm not taking glory from this, I just made one for me also.

Simple structure to copy a form of something and same time burn one with plasma gutter. I made the plasma to be height adjustable for different tighness to gut and simpple wingbolt to hold it in place.
In the next pictures, there is missing the tracking rod (in same vertical axle as the plasma is) and the upper structure that hold the idem to be copied, I made that after taking these pictures. Nothing difficult, just a beam from side to side of the frsme of my plasma-/welding table overhead vacuum cleaner.

img2909704.jpg
It has two sets of hinges so it will move freely around the entire table area. Normal hardwarestore-grade weldebul hinges, can be lift up and off. Brass bearings. Just make sure that edgehinges are square to table so plasma will travel in same hight off the table all the way.
Sorry about the welds, but its just a tool, not something to show off. Going to paint it later.

img2909705.jpg

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Very simple to use, when you are doing e.g exhaust flanges, you are following the outside of the original flange with a guide rod, same time your plasma is making another from the piece of material you have put under it on the table. Then you can put your guide in the inside and copy that as well.

I noticed when I did copy a fivepoint star with it that is easier to copy outside forms than inside, that way you dont bite any pieces of if you hand do a little shaking or going off with guide from the original.

[SuperB70]

It has been slow in here so I'll post some thing:

Have been doing an tube connecting cone for one of NelsonRacingEngine creations. Made it from 3mm (0.12 inch) aluminium hand form it so that one end is for throttle body and other is for 2x3.5" tubes. 6" long

img3007657.jpg

img3007660.jpg

img3007661.jpg

Its not ready yet, have to weld it together, add acouple plugs for 1/8"npt sensors and some little things.

Just made it so the engine can go back to dyno. Will do it nicer when modifing it to fit the car.

Anybody done anything else?

EDIT:
Now its done:

img3011606.jpg


img3011608.jpg

Still have to clean it up.

,Juhani

[airforce1]

Heres a couple suspension pieces I turned out on the Haas TL-2 a couple months back, of course the inspiration here was Hotchkis since there quality and proven performance is second to none I used solid stock instead of tubing and ended up changing the K frame mounting point later to the solid dome piece in the later photo's which is based on CAP products strut bar design

[SuperB70]

They look great!

It has been dead quiet here, anybody building anything anymore?

I have and I will

Been working on own kind of redneck rotisserie, has trailer hubs, and 13" car tires. Made is so that it's easy to move to trailer, blaster and paint.

Just starting to build a supercharger intake for 426(572) Hemi. starting from BDS roots intake and turning it for TwinScrew.

If there is intress here, maeby I'll post some pics...

Just trying to get some life in here...

,Juhani

[44TVF]

They look great!

It has been dead quiet here, anybody building anything anymore?

I have and I will

Been working on own kind of redneck rotisserie, has trailer hubs, and 13" car tires. Made is so that it's easy to move to trailer, blaster and paint.

Just starting to build a supercharger intake for 426(572) Hemi. starting from BDS roots intake and turning it for TwinScrew.

If there is intress here, maeby I'll post some pics...

Just trying to get some life in here...

,Juhani

Yes we would all love to see some pics I have been working on mine but I want to get enough done so it looks like something before I post up the pics.

[44TVF]

This is just a bit of a test run for things to come bit new to posting pics.The first pic is the test rig to find the best place in relation to bump steer and after alot of testing and adjusting I made a jig and the built the real thing.And here is my cardboard sump my youngest daughter helped make and she is a bit concerned if I go through a puddle it may get wet. It was dropped off to be folded up today and it has a swinging pickup and internal gates ect.Cheers Bill

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